The Peel Spectrum
Chemical peels are classified by depth of penetration. Superficial peels affect only the epidermis. Medium peels reach the upper dermis. Deep peels penetrate to the mid-dermis. The depth determines both the result and the recovery required.
Superficial peels: Epidermis only. Minimal to no visible peeling. No downtime. OTC concentrations reach this level.
Medium peels: Upper to mid-dermis. Visible peeling for 3 to 7 days. Some redness. Professional application.
Deep peels: Mid-dermis. Significant peeling, swelling and recovery of 7 to 14 days or more. Medical-grade. Anaesthesia sometimes required.
At-Home: Daily Leave-On Products (Superficial Level 1)
AHA serums and toners at 5% to 12% used daily or every other day constitute the lightest peel-equivalent available.
What they deliver: Accelerated surface cell turnover, improvement in skin texture, reduction of minor hyperpigmentation over 8 to 16 weeks, reduction in the appearance of fine surface lines.
Acids at this level: Glycolic acid 5% to 10%, lactic acid 5% to 12%, mandelic acid 5% to 10%.
Recovery: None required. Minor tingling on application is normal. Temporary redness resolves within 30 minutes.
Best for: Routine maintenance, gradual improvement, introduction to acid use, any skin type when starting.
At-Home: Occasional Higher-Concentration Treatments (Superficial Level 2)
OTC peel products at 15% to 30% glycolic or lactic acid, used once per week or less.
What they deliver: More accelerated cell turnover than daily use products. Visible improvement in texture and minor pigmentation with consistent use over 4 to 8 weeks.
Recovery: 12 to 24 hours of redness, occasional slight flaking 2 to 3 days after use.
Products: The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution, Paula's Choice 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Mask, Alpha-H Liquid Gold.
Safety requirement: A patch test 24 hours before first use. Apply the peel for a shorter time than indicated the first use (5 minutes rather than 10 minutes). Increase time as skin acclimatises. Never use on sensitised, sunburned, broken or recently waxed skin.
Upload a photo or describe your skin concerns, current product tolerance and any previous reactions to acids. The Skin Analyzer identifies your skin's current tolerance level and recommends the appropriate peel strength, frequency and the concerns each level addresses for your skin.
Find My Peel LevelCheck Peel IngredientsProfessional Superficial Peels (Salons and Aestheticians)
30% to 50% glycolic or lactic acid applied by a trained aesthetician. Also includes Jessner's solution (resorcinol, lactic acid and salicylic acid in a specific formulation).
What they deliver: Noticeably improved texture and brightness immediately after. Reduction of mild hyperpigmentation with a series of 4 to 6 treatments spaced 2 to 4 weeks apart.
Recovery: 24 to 72 hours of redness. Slight flaking on days 2 to 4 in some skin types. No significant downtime.
Cost: £50 to £150 per treatment.
When professional is worth choosing over home: When you want faster, more consistent results than OTC products deliver, when you want a qualified person to assess your skin's response in real time, and when you want a more comprehensive result than an OTC product achieves.
Professional Medium Peels (Dermatologist or Supervised Clinic)
TCA (trichloroacetic acid) at 15% to 35%. Sometimes called a "lunchtime peel" at lower concentrations; at higher concentrations, recovery requires days.
What they deliver: Significant improvement in deeper fine lines, substantial reduction of moderate hyperpigmentation, improvement in mild acne scarring texture.
Recovery: 5 to 10 days. Visible peeling, possible swelling in the first 48 hours, redness during healing, new skin emerges pink and sensitive.
Cost: £150 to £500 per treatment.
When to choose a dermatologist over an aesthetician: For TCA peels above 20%, and for any peel on darker skin tones where the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is higher and requires a trained assessment.
Deep Peels: Medical Grade Only
Phenol peels and CO2 laser resurfacing (which functions equivalently to a deep peel) penetrate to the mid-dermis.
What they deliver: Dramatic reduction of deep wrinkles, significant acne scarring improvement, substantial pigmentation correction.
Recovery: 7 to 14 days or more of significant peeling, swelling and pink healing skin. Full recovery of normal skin tone takes 4 to 6 weeks.
Who performs them: Dermatologists and plastic surgeons only. Some require local or general anaesthesia.
Not appropriate for: Darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick types IV to VI) due to high risk of permanent hypopigmentation or hyperpigmentation. Risk-benefit assessment by a qualified professional is mandatory.