Contouring and Highlighting: The Techniques That Work on Every Face Shape

The Two Principles Behind Contouring

Every contouring technique is based on two simple principles: dark colours recede (appear further away or smaller) and light colours advance (appear closer or more prominent).

A contour applied to the sides of the nose makes the nose appear narrower because the darker shade creates the visual impression of shadow, pulling those areas away from the viewer. A highlight applied to the tip of the nose brings it forward.

You apply contour where you want less visual attention and highlight where you want more.

Product Types and Their Uses

Powder contour: Easiest to blend and most forgiving for beginners. Applies over foundation or directly on skin. Best for normal, combination and oily skin. Matte bronzers and contour powders are interchangeable; both serve the purpose of shadow creation.

Cream contour: Blends seamlessly into skin for a natural finish. Applied before powder products. Requires more blending speed than powder. Best for dry skin; cream formulas do not emphasise dry texture the way powders do.

Liquid contour: The most buildable and the sherest. Blended with fingertips or a damp sponge. Creates the most natural finish. Best used under or over foundation.

Highlight products:

• Powder: Champagne, gold or bronze highlight powders applied with a fan brush
• Liquid strobing drops: A few drops mixed into foundation or moisturiser
• Cream or liquid stick highlighter: Applied with fingertip and blended outward

Face Shape-Specific Placement

Oval Face

Oval faces have balanced proportions with gently curved contours. The goal is maintaining the natural balance rather than adding or reducing specific areas.

Contour placement:

• Light application along the temples to add dimension
• Subtle hollowing of the cheekbones along the hairline
• Optional: soft contour down both sides of the nose

Highlight placement:

• Centre of the forehead
• Top of the cheekbone (not the entire cheek; the highest point only)
• Cupid's bow and bridge of the nose

Round Face

A round face has similar width and height with full cheeks and a rounded chin. The goal is creating length and reducing the visual width.

Contour placement:

• Both temples (reduces width at the top)
• Below the cheekbone along the jawline (hollows the cheek area)
• Both sides of the forehead (brings in the width at the top)
• Sides of the chin (lengthens the face slightly)

Highlight placement:

• Vertical stripe down the centre of the forehead (adds height)
• Top of the cheekbone only (keeps the highlight narrow)
• Centre chin (adds length to the lower face)

Square Face

A square face has a wide, angular forehead and a strong jaw that are similar in width. The goal is softening the angles and adding length.

Contour placement:

• Corners of the forehead (reduces the angular width at the top)
• Along the jaw and jawline corners (softens the square jaw angle)
• Temples to reduce the overall width

Highlight placement:

• Centre of the forehead (adds height)
• Top of the cheekbone (draws attention to the centre of the face)
• Nose bridge (adds vertical emphasis)
• Centre chin (adds length)

Heart Face (Wide Forehead, Narrow Chin)

A heart face is widest at the forehead and temples, tapering to a narrow chin. The goal is reducing the forehead width and adding visual width to the lower face.

Contour placement:

• Temples and sides of the forehead (brings in the widest point)
• Sides of the forehead at the hairline

Highlight placement:

• Below the cheekbone on the cheek area (adds width to the mid-face)
• Jaw and chin area (wider, lower placement adds width at the narrowest point)

The Blending Rule That Prevents a Muddy Finish

Contour produces a harsh, unnatural look when placed incorrectly or blended poorly. Two blending rules prevent this:

Rule 1: Blend upward and outward, never downward. Dragging contour downward emphasises jowl areas and makes the face appear to droop. Always blend contour upward toward the hairline and temples.

Rule 2: Use a soft, fluffy brush for powder and your fingers or a damp sponge for cream. The brush type determines how diffused the edge is. A dense flat brush creates a harder edge. A fluffy, dome-shaped brush creates a gradient that reads as natural shadow.

The No-Contour Cheat Sheet

If blending feels too technical, bronzer applied lightly to the top third of the face (temples, along the hairline, the bridge of the nose and the hollows of the cheeks) provides warmth and dimension without the precision required for full contouring. Add a single highlight to the top of the cheekbone. This two-step version produces 70% of the result of full contouring in a fraction of the time.