The Four Types of Hyperpigmentation

Not all dark spots are the same. The type determines both the treatment approach and the realistic timeline for improvement.

Type 1: Sun Spots (Solar Lentigines)

Appearance: Flat, brown to tan spots on sun-exposed areas. Defined edges. Common on the face, hands, shoulders and forearms. Increase in number with age and cumulative UV exposure.

Cause: Excess melanin production in response to UV exposure. Melanocytes (pigment-producing cells) are stimulated by UV and produce concentrated deposits rather than even distribution.

Treatment timeline: 8 to 16 weeks with consistent topical treatment.

Most effective ingredients:

  • Vitamin C (10% to 20% L-ascorbic acid): Inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that produces melanin
  • Alpha arbutin (2%): Tyrosinase inhibitor; well-tolerated by most skin types
  • Tranexamic acid (2% to 5%): Disrupts the signalling pathway between UV receptors and melanocytes
  • AHA exfoliants (glycolic or lactic acid 5% to 12%): Accelerate turnover of pigmented cells at the surface
  • Hydroquinone (2% OTC in the USA; prescription-only in the UK and EU): The most potent tyrosinase inhibitor but requires breaks in use due to irritation potential

Type 2: Melasma

Appearance: Larger, blotchy areas of pigmentation, typically on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip and chin in a symmetrical pattern. Grey-brown or brown. The borders are less defined than sun spots.

Cause: Hormonal, triggered or worsened by pregnancy (chloasma), hormonal contraception, sun exposure and heat. The hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis influences melanocyte activity.

Treatment timeline: 12 to 24 weeks for visible improvement; recurrence is common without ongoing sun protection.

Most effective approaches:

  • Broad-spectrum SPF 50 used consistently is non-negotiable; without it, all other treatments are counteracted by daily UV exposure
  • Tranexamic acid shows the strongest evidence base for melasma specifically
  • Niacinamide (5%) reduces melanosome transfer and brightens gradually
  • Azelaic acid (10% to 20%): Approved for melasma in several markets; reduces melanin production and has anti-inflammatory properties
  • Hydroquinone (4% prescription): Standard medical treatment for melasma globally

What does not work for melasma: AHA and BHA exfoliants alone. These accelerate surface turnover but do not address the hormonal signalling that drives melasma production at the dermal level.

Type 3: Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)

Appearance: Dark marks left behind after a pimple, wound, eczema patch or insect bite heals. Common in all skin tones but more persistent and darker in medium to deep complexions.

Cause: Inflammation triggers melanocytes to produce excess melanin as a protective response. The pigment deposits in the upper dermis and lower epidermis after the original inflammation resolves.

Treatment timeline: Superficial PIH: 3 to 6 months. Deep PIH: 6 to 24 months.

Most effective ingredients for PIH:

  • Niacinamide (5%): Reduces melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes
  • Azelaic acid (10%): Anti-inflammatory; reduces the inflammation cycle before it triggers new pigmentation
  • Retinoids: Accelerate cell turnover and bring pigmented cells to the surface faster
  • Alpha arbutin: Reduces melanin production at the source
  • Chemical exfoliation (AHA/BHA): Accelerates shedding of surface pigmented cells

Type 4: Freckles (Ephelis)

Appearance: Small, light brown spots distributed across the nose, cheeks, shoulders and arms. Darken in summer and lighten or disappear in winter.

Cause: Genetic. Freckles are not a form of skin damage; they are areas of normal variation where melanocytes are more responsive to UV stimulation.

Treatment note: Freckles are not a skin concern in any medical sense. Treatments that reduce them also reduce sun protection signalling in those cells. If you want to reduce freckle appearance temporarily, topical brighteners create a more even tone. Sun avoidance causes freckles to fade on their own in winter months.

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Skin Analyzer
Identify your hyperpigmentation type and get a treatment plan

Upload a clear photo of the pigmented area in natural light. The Skin Analyzer identifies whether your dark spots are sun spots, melasma, PIH or freckles, and returns a specific treatment plan with the correct ingredients for your type and skin tone.

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The SPF Rule for All Pigmentation Types

SPF is not optional for any pigmentation treatment to work. UV exposure daily undoes the effects of any brightening active within hours.

A study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology showed that even 3 minutes of midday summer sun reversed 8 weeks of vitamin C treatment progress in participants not wearing SPF.

Apply SPF 50 every morning as the final step of your routine. Reapply every 2 hours during outdoor activity. This is not a recommendation; it is the mechanism that makes every other pigmentation treatment function.

Building a Pigmentation Routine

Morning:

  1. Gentle cleanser
  2. Vitamin C serum (10% to 20%)
  3. Moisturiser
  4. SPF 50 (mandatory)

Evening:

  1. Double cleanse (if wearing SPF or makeup)
  2. Retinoid OR AHA exfoliant (alternate nights)
  3. Niacinamide serum OR azelaic acid
  4. Moisturiser

What to avoid:

  • Picking at PIH marks; physical trauma worsens PIH significantly
  • Heat treatments (saunas, very hot showers) which stimulate melanocyte activity
  • Fragrance and irritants which trigger the inflammation cycle that worsens PIH