The Three Phases Every Hair Follicle Cycles Through
Each hair follicle on your scalp operates independently. At any given moment, different follicles are in different phases of the growth cycle. The cycle has three phases, each serving a distinct function.
Phase 1: Anagen (Active Growth)
The anagen phase is the period of active hair production. During anagen, follicle cells divide rapidly at the base of the bulb, producing new keratin that lengthens the hair shaft.
Duration: 2 to 7 years per cycle. Genetics determines where your follicles fall within this range.
The length ceiling: Hair grows approximately 1 to 1.5 cm per month. If your anagen phase lasts 2 years, your maximum theoretical length is approximately 24 to 36 cm (shoulder to armpit length). If your anagen phase lasts 7 years, your theoretical maximum is 84 to 126 cm (waist to hip length or beyond).
This is why some people struggle to grow past a certain length: Their anagen phase is genetically shorter, not their growth rate slower. The hair is shedding at the end of anagen before reaching the length they want.
What affects anagen duration:
- Genetics (the dominant factor; 70% to 80% of duration)
- Nutritional status (iron, zinc, protein deficiencies shorten anagen)
- Hormonal changes (thyroid disorders, androgens, oestrogen decline)
- Scalp health (chronic inflammation shortens follicle productivity)
At any given time, 85% to 90% of your scalp's follicles are in anagen. The scalp has approximately 100,000 follicles total; 85,000 to 90,000 are actively growing at any point.
Phase 2: Catagen (Transition)
Catagen is a brief transitional phase lasting 2 to 3 weeks. The follicle shrinks, the lower third of the follicle degrades and blood supply to the follicle temporarily decreases. The hair detaches from the dermal papilla (the base structure that feeds the follicle) but does not yet shed.
Only 1% to 3% of follicles are in catagen at any time. The phase is too brief to produce a visible change in hair density.
What you notice: Nothing externally. Catagen produces no shedding; the hair simply stops growing.
Phase 3: Telogen (Resting and Shedding)
The telogen phase is the resting period. The old hair (now called a club hair) sits in the follicle while the follicle prepares to produce a new anagen hair beneath it.
Duration: 3 to 5 months per cycle.
Shedding: Toward the end of telogen, the new anagen hair pushing up from below dislodges the club hair. This is normal daily shedding. Normal shedding is 50 to 100 hairs per day.
10% to 15% of follicles are in telogen at any time. This means you have 10,000 to 15,000 hairs in a resting or shedding phase at any moment.
Telogen effluvium: A significant stressor (illness, surgery, childbirth, extreme stress, severe nutritional deficiency) forces large numbers of follicles into telogen simultaneously. Visible shedding appears 2 to 4 months after the stressor as these follicles reach the end of their telogen phase simultaneously. Recovery occurs naturally over the subsequent 6 to 9 months as follicles return to anagen.
Describe your hair growth rate, how much hair you shed daily and any recent health or life events. The Hair Analyzer assesses whether your shedding and growth pattern is consistent with a healthy growth cycle or whether a disruption to the cycle is affecting your hair density and length progress.
Analyse My Hair GrowthAsk About My Hair Growth CycleWhat Affects the Length of Your Anagen Phase
You cannot override genetics entirely, but several factors influence how long each follicle stays productive in anagen.
Scalp Blood Circulation
The follicle receives nutrients from the dermal papilla, which relies on blood flow from the scalp's capillary network. Reduced blood flow delivers fewer nutrients to the follicle cells. Minoxidil (the active ingredient in Rogaine/Regaine) extends anagen partly by increasing blood flow to the follicle.
Natural methods that improve scalp circulation: scalp massage applied with pressure for 4 to 5 minutes daily, inversion exercises (lying with the head below the level of the heart briefly), and physical exercise generally (which increases systemic circulation, including scalp blood flow).
Nutritional Sufficiency
The follicle cells dividing in anagen require protein (keratin production), iron (oxygen transport to cells), zinc (cell repair) and B vitamins (cellular energy). Deficiency in any of these shortens anagen or produces thinner, weaker hair during anagen.
Iron deficiency is the most consistently identified nutritional cause of shortened anagen. A serum ferritin below 30 ng/mL is associated with increased shedding and reduced hair density in multiple studies. Test ferritin specifically, not just haemoglobin; ferritin reflects stored iron and depletes before anaemia becomes clinically apparent.
Scalp Health and Inflammation
Chronic scalp inflammation shortens anagen in the affected follicles. Seborrheic dermatitis, scalp psoriasis, persistent dandruff and fungal infections all produce inflammatory mediators that disrupt the follicle's growth cycle.
Treating scalp conditions is a hair growth intervention, not simply a cosmetic one. A follicle in a chronically inflamed environment produces thinner, slower-growing hair and enters telogen earlier than a follicle in a healthy scalp environment.
The Practical Implications for Hair Length
If your hair stops growing at a predictable length: Your anagen phase is probably ending at a genetically determined point. No product extends anagen permanently. Supporting the anagen phase through nutrition and scalp health ensures you reach your genetic maximum rather than falling short of it due to preventable factors.
If your hair has been shedding noticeably for 3 to 6 months: A telogen effluvium triggered by a stressor 2 to 4 months ago is the most likely cause. Identify the trigger and address it; the follicles will return to anagen on their own schedule.
If your hair seems to grow slowly: The growth rate (1 to 1.5 cm per month) is largely fixed genetically. The perception of slow growth is often actually high breakage at the ends that removes length as fast as growth adds it. Address the breakage rather than attempting to accelerate growth beyond the genetic rate.