Hair Type Guide: How to Identify Your Curl Pattern and Choose the Right Products

The Hair Typing System

The most widely used hair classification system divides hair into four main categories (1 to 4) with three subcategories (A, B, C). Category 1 is straight. Category 4 is tightly coiled. Within each category, A is the least defined and C is the most defined.

Porosity (how well your hair absorbs and holds moisture) and density (how many strands per square centimetre) are separate measurements that affect product choice independently of curl type.

Type 1: Straight Hair

1A: Fine, completely straight. Prone to oiliness because sebum travels easily from scalp to ends.

1B: Medium texture with slight body and volume at the roots.

1C: Coarse, straight with a slight bend. More resistant to styling than 1A or 1B.

Product approach: Lightweight shampoos and conditioners only. Heavy creams or butter products weigh straight hair flat and accelerate oil build-up. Use dry shampoo for day-to-day oil management without stripping natural moisture.

Type 2: Wavy Hair

2A: Loose, fine waves from mid-length down. The easiest wave pattern to work with.

2B: More defined waves starting at the root. More frizz-prone than 2A.

2C: Strong S-waves from the root. Significant frizz potential in humidity.

Product approach: Curl-enhancing creams and light gels work well. The squish-to-condish technique (scrunching water and conditioner into the hair in the shower) increases wave definition. Diffuse on low heat rather than air drying to reduce frizz on 2C hair.

Type 3: Curly Hair

3A: Loose, large curls (roughly the diameter of a piece of chalk). Well-defined when products are applied correctly.

3B: Medium ringlets (roughly the diameter of a marker pen). More volume, more dryness.

3C: Tight corkscrews (roughly the diameter of a pencil). Dense, voluminous, requires consistent moisture.

Product approach: Leave-in conditioner applied to soaking-wet hair is essential for 3B and 3C. Curl-defining creams and gels seal moisture in. Apply product using the praying hands technique (smoothing product down sections of hair) rather than scrunching, which distributes it more evenly. Protein treatments every 4 to 6 weeks strengthen the curl structure.

Type 4: Coily and Kinky Hair

4A: Defined S-coils (roughly the diameter of a knitting needle). Retains moisture less effectively than Type 3.

4B: Z-pattern coils that bend at sharp angles rather than spiralling. Significant shrinkage (up to 70%).

4C: Tightly coiled with minimal definition. The most fragile of all types. Shrinkage reaches 75% of actual length.

Product approach for Type 4:

The LOC method (Liquid, Oil, Cream) is the standard moisture-sealing technique:

• L: Apply a water-based leave-in conditioner to wet hair
• O: Seal with a lightweight oil (jojoba, grapeseed or argan)
• C: Lock moisture with a thick cream or butter (shea, mango)

Protective styles (braids, twists, updos) reduce daily manipulation and breakage. Always detangle wet with a wide-tooth comb, working from ends to roots.

How to Test Your Porosity at Home

The float test: Take 2 to 3 clean, dry strands from your comb. Place them in a glass of room-temperature water. Wait 4 minutes.

• Float: Low porosity. Hair resists absorbing water.
• Sink slowly: Medium porosity. The ideal balance.
• Sink immediately: High porosity. Hair absorbs water fast but loses it just as fast.

Low porosity: Use lightweight products and heat-activation. Steam before applying products to open the cuticle.

High porosity: Use heavier products with protein content (hydrolysed wheat protein, keratin). Rinse with cool water after conditioning to close the cuticle temporarily.

Building Your Routine Around Your Type