Wig and Hair Piece Guide: Types, Care and How to Style Them Naturally

The Three Wig Fibre Types

Human Hair Wigs

Characteristics: Look and feel the most natural. Styled with heat tools exactly as you would style your own hair. Longest lifespan with proper care (1 to 3 years with regular wear). Most expensive.

Types of human hair used:

• Remy human hair: Cuticles all aligned in the same direction; minimal tangling; highest quality
• Virgin hair: Unprocessed Remy hair; no chemical treatments; longest lasting
• Non-Remy hair: Cuticles not aligned; tangles more; less expensive

Care requirements: Wash every 7 to 14 days with sulphate-free shampoo and conditioner. Deep condition monthly. Store on a wig stand away from direct sunlight.

Synthetic Wigs

Characteristics: Pre-styled; returns to its original style after washing. Cannot be heat-styled (unless heat-friendly). Less expensive than human hair. Lifespan: 3 to 6 months with regular wear.

Limitations: Synthetic fibre does not move like natural hair; in wind or at close inspection, the movement pattern is different. Styling versatility is limited.

Best for: Budget-conscious wearers, short-term use, or people who want a consistent style without daily maintenance.

Heat-Friendly Synthetic Wigs

Characteristics: A middle category. Heat tools up to 180°C (350°F) can be used. More versatile than standard synthetic. Lifespan similar to standard synthetic: 3 to 6 months.

The temperature rule is critical: Exceeding the heat limit on synthetic or heat-friendly synthetic causes irreversible melting and matting. Always verify the maximum temperature for your specific wig before using any heat tool.

Wig Cap Types

Lace front: A sheer lace panel at the hairline only. Natural-looking hairline with the appearance of hair growing from the scalp. The back and sides use a wefted construction.

Full lace: Sheer lace across the entire cap. Allows the hair to be parted in any direction. More comfortable and versatile than lace front; more expensive.

Monofilament: Individual hairs knotted onto a fine mesh. The most natural scalp appearance; each hair moves independently. Common in medical-grade wigs for hair loss.

Wefted/machine-made: Hair wefts sewn onto fabric in rows. No lace element. Secure and durable. The hairline is less natural-looking without customisation.

Natural-Looking Installation

The difference between a wig that looks natural and one that reads as an obvious piece is in the installation at the hairline.

Lace preparation: The lace on a lace front or full lace wig requires trimming before installation. Cut the lace to within 0.5 to 1mm of the hairline knots. Cutting too far back reveals knots; leaving too much lace creates a visible edge.

Knot tinting: The knots on a lace wig appear as small dark dots against the lace. Tinting them with a eyeshadow shade matching your scalp colour (dark brown, tan or beige) before installation makes the hairline appear to grow from the scalp.

Adhesive options:

• Wig glue (strong hold): Applied to the perimeter of the hairline; maximum hold for an active lifestyle or performance
• Wig tape (double-sided): Applied to the lace edge; less intensive than glue; gentler on the hairline
• Wig grip bands: A velvet or silicone band worn under the wig; no adhesive; suitable for sensitive skin or people with dermatological conditions

Baby hairs: Apply a light-hold edge gel to the very front hairs of the wig and lay them flat against the skin using a small toothbrush or edge brush. This step creates a natural hairline appearance that distinguishes a well-installed wig from one that appears to sit on the head.

Washing Human Hair Wigs

1. Detangle gently from ends to roots with a wide-tooth comb before washing
2. Fill a sink with cool water; add sulphate-free shampoo
3. Submerge the wig and gently swish without rubbing; do not wring
4. Rinse thoroughly with cool water
5. Apply conditioner from mid-length to ends; avoid the roots and the lace
6. Rinse and press gently in a towel; do not rub
7. Place on a wig stand and allow to air dry at room temperature; do not use a hair dryer on human hair wigs unless completely necessary, and only on low heat

Washing Synthetic Wigs

1. Detangle gently before washing
2. Fill a sink with cool water and synthetic-specific wig shampoo
3. Submerge and swish for 2 to 3 minutes; do not agitate
4. Rinse in cool water
5. Press gently in a towel and place on a wig stand to air dry
6. Do not brush synthetic wigs while wet; wait until fully dry, then use a wig brush with looped bristles

The most damaging errors in synthetic wig care: using regular shampoo (strips the coating that maintains the style), using hot water (deforms the synthetic fibres) and brushing when wet (causes irreversible stretching and frizz).